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Runway & Designers

Jean Paul Gaultier: Reinventing Eighties

Any fashionista who has browsed through a few collections from a single fashion week event will have noticed that 2013 fashion trends seem to be governed by mysterious memes. When blocks of sheers and opaques appear, they do so in more than one collection. Where indigo heels emerge, it is seldom under a single designer. The world`s premier couturiers seem to be esoterically linked to one another, displaying the same salutes and celebrations other designers use season after season. Jean Gaultier has always managed to remain far above the rest of the pack, presenting signature aesthetics that are impossible to replicate.

Jean Paul Gaultier gave salutation to the Indian Gypsy look through frocks that seemed to invite the elements to participate through flimsy sheers carried by the breeze. Palettes were vibrantly fiery in his 2013 fashion trends. Gaultier offered a jubilant range that sought to capture the classic culture of India through his typical focus on drape, which will continue to be an imperative part of his 2013 fashion trends. Few designers are as prone to the whims of fabrics as Jean Paul Gaultier is. His epically talented seamstresses passed their skills down to the current generation, leaving the fashion house with the kind of technique that can`t be bought. By inventively combining jersey fabrics, chiffon and Indian prints, he set the catwalks ablaze with Eastern mythology and religion, which will be a focal point for 2013 fashion trends.

A dash of sparkle was added through Swarovski glimmers, embroidered beads, mesh and crochet. While other designers invoked Eighties aesthetics through graphic prints and neon hues, Jean Paul Gaultier recreated the icons of the era by saluting the styles of the decade`s heroines. Annie Lennox, Grace Jones and Madonna were resurrected through outfits that personified their most renowned looks. Jean Paul Gaultier has dressed spring in a range of colors vivid enough to compete with the brightest of Holi festivals.

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Monique Lhullier: Wedded Bliss

Monique Lhullier is quickly stealing the bridal limelight from Valentino and Vivienne Westwood in terms of new fashion trends in bridal wear. The desire for romance, whimsical flourishes and feminine flavors has turned this designer into a viable contender for the highest rank in new fashion trends for weddings. Her ivory frocks for 2013 were fantastical enough to befit the most starry-eyed fairytale princess. In a bold move away from the traditional, she offered some contemporary styles with hip hugging tailoring and perfectly draped hemlines. Sensual flourishes such as thigh high slits and sheer lace bodice details added a touch of sexiness to the collection, lending fresh sophistication to new fashion trends. In a move that seemed to pay homage to Valentino, Lhullier used feathery layers reminiscent of the former designer`s most renowned bridal collections of the Nineties.

Lhullier has also cleared a way for herself in street wear and ready to wear industries. Her new fashion trends presented in her namesake collection were founded on playful resort wear. Arresting prints used bold palettes of lime, yellow, neon orange and cerise, which were broken by flat white detailing. The new fashion trends set by this house feature some innovative fabric use. Sporty tailoring and high tech fabrics achieved a beachwear style that will become part of the new fashion trends in cocktail wear. Sculpted tailoring places emphasis on hips and waistlines, revitalizing the hourglass figure in a dramatic way. Curves are one of the most important facets of new fashion trends, transforming last year`s boyish waif into something altogether more authentic and feminine.

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Zuhair Murad: The Quest to Becoming a Fashion Designer

 

Zuhair Murad is only one example of the many couturiers that are changing the Western world`s fashions using offshore inspiration. Murad began his journey towards becoming a fashion designer in the Nineties when he expanded his Beirut lines to include high fashion, ready to wear, eyewear and accessories. Since then, he has dressed some of Hollywood`s most renowned stars, including Beyonce, Taylor Swift and Shakira. He has since built an enviable bridal collection sexy enough to match his eveningwear. His 2013 collection for summer used trendy blocks of sheer and opaque fabrics in a novel way. By combining beading and graphic sections of color, he put his signature on one of the year`s most sophisticated fashions. Sheer lace and ebony layers were demonstrative of the extensive talent that enabled Murad to quickly progress towards becoming a fashion designer.

Murad used three dominating hues in his collection: ebony, ivory and siren red. Instead of achieving variation using print and color, he used a vast array of textures and constructions. Chiffon, satin, feathers and sequins all made way for rising hemlines and translucent materials that allowed the skin to peep through. Flashes of naked flesh were carried into his bridal range. One of the most important facets to help Murad on his journey to becoming a fashion designer was his inspired use of texture variation. Skintight fabrics were seemingly painted onto the skin, turning the body into a unified part of the garment.

 

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Abed Mafouz: Exotic Sensuality

Abed Mafouz is yet another Beirut local influencing the latest fashion trends in prrt a porter and bridal wear. His family`s background in tailoring gave him the solid foundations he needed to release his first bridal collection. In the early Nineties, he entered the couture industry with a range that drew gasps and whispers from Rome Fashion Week crowds in 2002. For 2013, Mafouz has compiled an atypical wedding range that seldom falls back on traditional tulle, lace and ivory. Instead, silver satin, inspired champagne ruches and sprays of floral beading gave his latest fashion trends an exotic style that is wholly original. Crystals and diamante are seemingly tossed across fabric to create the appearance of star-studded layers. Bone bodices, maxi bows and intricately arranged crowns achieved a level of sophistication that is worthy of royalty.

The prrt a porter collection from Mafouz was even more melodramatic than his bridal frocks. Monochromatic fabric lengths were layered over one another using textures that seemed to belong in a previous century. Elbow length gloves were worn with slicked back hair to achieve a flapper girl style straight out of The Great Gatsby. In a single coup, he revealed a gossamer black gown that gathered at the ankles in a dramatic, opaque veil. The ombre effect achieved through layering alone is certain to become one of the latest fashion trends.

Hard Tail has reinvented the styles that were unveiled in the most recent fashion weeks to create a fresh perspective for loyal followers. Sportswear is given ombre shading and paint splash prints that resurrect the resort trends popularized by Lhurrier and Mafouz. Tie-dyes turn casual daywear into styles that are elegant enough to carry into early evenings. Tank tops use translucent sheaths of fabric to give sporty garments a more sensual aesthetic. By translating the world`s leading collections, the brand gives ready to wear outfits instant fashion relevance.

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Gallery: New York Fashion Week S/S 2013 ​

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